Time for a haircut -- Hua Hin style!

As the hot season (a name that is well chosen) is now well and truly upon us, I thought it was about time for a haircut. Now when I lived in Tokyo, this was a time and money-consuming event, but now I'm in Hua Hin, things are different. It's not as basic as the pavement barber I used in Vietnam but it's not exactly Vidal, if you know what I mean!

My good lady wife (a title that is also well chosen) gave me a lift to the hotel where she was going to do aerobics. From here, I walked through the already hot and busy streets, up through what would later be the tourist thronged night market, and into my barbers. I'm willing to bet many foreigners walk by without even knowing there's a barbers there -- it has no 'bleeding arm' sign outside. However, it is plain, friendly and cuts my hair the way I like it -- tropically short! Our former maid introduced me to it, this being where her husband used to get his cut. After a few visits, both the main artisans learned what I liked and so I now just sit down and let them do it. A nice haircut, a shave, a scalp massage and some cold towels (you wouldn't want hot towels here!), all for ฿60 -- that's about 93 British pence, A$2.23 or €1.37. That plus a ฿20 tip (which is appreciated, as the Thai customers never tip!) and I walk out feeling pretty good.

The trim was finished early this morning so I passed the time by taking a walk along one of the roads that run parallel with the sea. Eventually, I came to a street restaurant (some might call it a food vendor) that has some excellent grilled chicken for about ฿20, all served within 20 or 30 metres of the sea. The food stand doesn't sell beer so customers pop across to a nearby booze shop and buy their own. Feeling that it was a mite too hot for grilled anything, I just went straight to the booze shop, bought a bottle of Leo (a lighter beer than my normal Chang but it was just after 10) for ฿23 (35p/A¢85/€0.52). Not a bad way to round off a nice haircut.

Back in Tokyo, I'd have paid around ฿690 for the haircut, ฿140 for the chicken (that I didn't have), and maybe ฿70 for the beer. I wonder why I moved!

April -- a time of drought and cricket!

I got a bit of a shock whilst watching the BBC News this morning. Just as I was tucking into my tea and toast, there was a report from Thailand. With the military-appointed Prime Minister hospitalised and expected to resign, this wasn't surprising. However, the next thing I know, the reporter says 'Hua Hin'. Yes indeed, for the first time since I came to know this town, a non-Thai news report mentioned my new hometown. Sadly, it wasn't talking about this town's attractions but the drought that is afflicting a large part of Thailand. According to the Thai Meteorological Department, Hua Hin should get 16 mm of rain in March and 26.5 mm of rain in April, as we slowly head towards the wet season. However, we haven't had more than a cupful of rain for around 6-8 weeks and so the neighbourhood pineapple plantations are parched. The much-loved Thai monarch invented a chemical method for inducing rain, which involves sprinkling a substance in the sky that encourages clouds, and it is this that drew the BBC here. You see, Hua Hin's small airport is the base of this rainmaking operation. Will it work? Well, it did last year, but I have to say that according to the aforementioned Thai Meteorological Department, there's only a 10% chance of rain for the next week. So I'll keep saving water -- by drinking beer!

Talking of water, we're getting very close to the Thai New Year, Songkran, and in Hua Hin, that means it's time for cricket. Yesterday saw the start of the 12th Hua Hin Invitational Cricket Sixes, with a record 19 teams. This all happens just north of here at the spacious Dusit Resort, which is actually across the line in Petchaburi province. If you are feeling fit enough, the proceedings begin at 8am and keep going until 5.30pm -- if the beer holds out! I went to the Cricket Sixes last year -- and got well and truly soaked en route by the water splashing Songkran celebrants along the road. I might go later this week, especially as I may have a couple of Aussie friends staying with us, but we'll have to see. I am not that crazy about cricket, having been a poor batsman and an even worse bowler, and my oriental wife would be totally baffled, so maybe staying near the beach or the fridge seems to make a lot more sense. After all, what's the point of having an extended holiday in the hot season if you don't support the local breweries?

The first half of April has been cancelled!

Did you miss me? I know I said I'd tell you about my Bangkok jaunt when I got back but after I did get back, things got a little hectic and so I couldn't get round to it. Suffice to say that it all went well and as you can see, I survived the Thai driving and returned home to Hua Hin safe & well. Doesn't that make you feel better?

Now this weekend just finished (31st/1st) saw the highlight of the Asian rugby calendar, the Hong Kong Sevens. Luckily, I was able to watch every game on TV here and don’t worry -- I maintained the tradition of only watching the first game sober! There was some great rugby (though Japan and France need, as my teacher used to say, to 'try harder') but it also made me wonder why, when poor countries like Madagascar and Sri Lanka were represented, there is never a team from Thailand? Not just the HK Sevens but almost any large sporting event (except the Olympics). Well, after having lived here for almost 2 years now, I can easily explain that -- as can anyone who's ever worked with a typical Thai male. (I do have to mention that there is a 'Bangkok Sevens' tournament, but the vast majority of the players are farangs, with only a few non-typical Thais discovering how much fun life can be when you get your act together!)

1. If there were a Thai team, the kick-off would be 2 hours late. One reason there are so few clocks in Thai institutions and streets is that no one cares what the time is!

2. No one would ever pass the ball! For the average Thai, long term means after lunch and so preparing a strategy for any game would be impossible. Judging by my students and the people we do business with, the average response to getting the ball would be "very nice -- but where's the fun in this?" If it isn't fun, they just don't want to know!

3. Half time would last till the next day. There are exceptions, of course (mostly the ethnic Chinese Thais) but usually, if you give young Thais a 10-minute break, they'll come back after 30 or 40 minutes -- or never!

4. The Government would make it illegal for anyone to lose! No Thai high school student is allowed to fail, even if they never show up for class. A zero score is not permitted, so the referee would have to give the local team a point even if they never arrived!

There are some fairly successful Thai golfers, tennis players & boxers, but team sports require coordination -- and trying that here would test the patience of a saint!

Anyway, this is a short week for most Thais, as Friday is Chakri Day, a holiday that honours the ruling dynasty. What's more, the week after sees the onset of Songkran, the Thai New Year. This is celebrated by the locals throwing/firing/ladling water onto anyone they happen to meet, be they friend or stranger, passer-by or cop. That may not sound like too much fun but remember -- this is the HOT season, with 40c+ being a daily event, and so a nice cold shower can be very welcome!

However, this will, of course, mean a few more days' siesta for most of the Kingdom, so if you're hoping to get anything done in Thailand for the first half of April -- don't!